Wearing-apparel.



J. P. WEIS.

' WEARING APPAREL.

APPLICATION FILED NOV-9,1917.

1;277,@07 u Patented Aug. 27, 1918.

v I I T WITNESSES: INVEN R roar rm,

JOHN WEIS, OF NYACK, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOB T0 METROPOLITAN SEWING MACHINE CORPORATION, OF NYACK, NEW YORK, A CORPORATION OF DELAWARE.

WEARING-APPAREL.

Orginal application filed May 20,1915, Serial No. 98,725. Divided and this application filed November 9,

1917. Serial To all whom it may concern: I

Be it known that I, JOHN P. Wars, a citizen of the United States, residing at Nyack, in the county of Rockland and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Wearing-Apparel, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to wearing apparel, the object of the invention being to provide an improved articleof wearing apparel, such as shirt .waists, dust caps, bathing caps,

" skirts, bloomers, etc., having a pocket formed such for instance as a skirt or waist.

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"by hemming the garment and covering the raw edge of this hem with a strip or folded tape and inserting between such hemmed work and the covering strip an elastic strip so that when the hem is complete the elastic will be efiective to causea certain portion of the garment'to be gathered so that the garment will adjust itself to the wearer, the present improved article being similar? to that shown and described in my contemporaneously pending application, Serial No, 9s,725,'fi1edMa 20, 1915, of which the present case is a division, and which shows a two-needle sewing machine for making said garment, which machine is provided with means for 'forming a hem, means for guiding a covering strip to the raw edge of the hem, and guidingmeans for an elastic strip. or rubber band interposed between the two together with tensioningmeans for such elastic strip and means for operating it, whereby during the operation of forming the garment the elastic strip will be placed under tension for a certain portion of the time and free from a such tension during another part thereof. 'In the drawin acompanying and forming a part of this specification, the figure illustrates the waist portion of a gamers, 3 stated in my original application, above referred to, it is desirable in'the production of wearing apparel, such as shirt waists, skirts, bloomers, etc., to form a hem and to cover the raw edge of this hem'with a strip or folded tape and at the same time insert and in said application I have shown and Patented Aug. at, rate,

described a two-needle sewing machine having means for forming a' hem, means for guiding or folding a covering strip and a shiftable guiding means for guiding an elastic strip or rubber band interposed between the two together with a tensioning means for such an elastic strip and means for operating it simultaneously with the shifting action of the elastic strip by some suitable means whereby during the operation of the machine the strip will be stitched to the ing which time the strip is in its normal condition or not under tension, and at other times the strip will be stretched or retarded in such mannerthat it will be placed under tension and during which time it is unstitched to the garment so that as the garment leaves the, sewing machine those portions of the elastic strip which are under tension efiect the gathering of the garment by returning to their normal or unstretched condition. As such a two-needle machine adapted for making the present improved article ofmanufacture is completely shown and described in my contemporaneously pending applicatiomrit is deemed unnecessary to again describe the same and'it' will therefore be suflicient to say that in the manufacture of the article they-"elastic strip is inserted simultaneously with the hemming of the raw edge of the article and the guiding of the covering strip to cover such raw edge, the elastic strip being inserted bethe elastic strip, and in which pocket the elastic strip is stitched while in .an' untensioned condition at spaced points and ungarment at certain points and durstitched while in a stretched. or tensioned' condition between such spaced points with the result that when the garment is com-,

pleted that portion of the elastic strip which was tensioned or stretched will'return to its normal conditionand so gather the garment, while that'portion of the elastic strip which was unstretched will have no efi'ect on the gathering of the garment.- In other words,

the raw edge of the hem and forms with the hemmed edge 01 the garment a pocket for the elastic strip. 111 manufacturing the garment, the elastic strip is inserted between the covering strip and the hemmed portion of the garment, it being understood of course, as set forth in my original application, that the elastic strip is inserted simultaneously with the hennning of the garment and the application of the covering strip, and moreover simultaneously with the folding of the edges or the covering strip when such edges are folded, and that. the stitching of the hemmed edge of the work and of one edge of the covering strip thereto is accomplished by one needle of the machine, while the stitching oi the other edge of the covering strip to the garment and through the elastic strip at certain points is accomplished by the other needle and all take place simultaneously, so that in the garment shown, the elastic strip is stitched tothe garment in its pocket along the line 52 and up to say the point 53, and during which time the elastic strip is in its normal or untensioned condition, while from the point 53 to the point 5% the stitching proceeds so as to connect the covering strip to the garment, but the elastic strip is under tension or stretched, so that it will miss the needle and therefore is unstitched to the garment from point 53 to o l, so that consequently, as the work leaves the machine, the elastic strip returning to its normal or unstretched condition gathers the garment in the manner shown between points 53 and 54L. When the work has proceeded to the point 54:,tension upon the elastic strip is released, whereupon the elastic strip is again stitched or tacked in its pocket along the line 52. lhus the garment, if a shirt waist or skirt, is provided with plain portions 57 at its ends, so as to overlap one another and facilitate the attachment of suitable-fastening means with the gathers 58 at the rear of such plain portions, the length of such plain portions being determined at the will of the operator in the manipulation of the mechanism shown in my prior application. Thus it will be observed that in the garment shown the covering strip and the hemmed portion or the garment are stitched by one line or a top'line of stitches 56 all around, for instance the portion of the garment, that the covering strip and hemmed portion of the garment are also stitched by another and parallel line of stitches 52 around the waist portion of the garment, but that the elastic strip is only stitched along the line of stitches 52 from the end of the garment to the points 53 or at which timethe elastic strip is in its normal or unstretched condition, while between the points 53 and 5a the elastic strip is free in its pocket, in other words not stitched to the garment at all between these points, but that during this time, that is, while the covering strip was being stitched to the hemmed garment by two rows of parallel stitches, the elastic strip was free in its pocket and unstitched, that is, unstitched to the garment but under tension or stretched, so that as the garment leaves the machine it is gathered between the points 53 and 54: by reason of the fact that the elastic strip returns to its normal unstretched condition. By this very simple procedure it will be seen that any desired waist size may be readily made according to the amount or the plain portion or the gathered portion that the operator may give to the garment. This result is obtained in the machine shown in my said prior application by shifting the elastic strip after it has been stitched along the line 52 a certain distance, so as to carry it away from the line of stitches and retarding the strip or placin the strip under tension while the stitching proceeds without stitching the elastic strip to the garment, while in my contemporaneously pending application, Serial No. 89,222, filed July 12, 1915, the same result may be obtained in the manner just described or by merely clamping the strip without shitting it thereby to stretch it and narrow it, and thus carry it away from the needle line.

1 claim as my invention:

1. An article of wearing apparel having a finished edge or portion comprising a hemmed edge and a covering strip stitched thereto by spaced parallel rows of stitches and forming therewith a pocket, and an elastic strip in said pocket and having spaced parts stitched to the garment While the strip is in its normal condition and free of tension and a part intermediate such spaced and stitched parts unstitched to the garment while such intermediate part is in a stretched condition, so that when such stretched por= tions of the elastic strip resume their normal lid condition the garment will be gathered between these points where the strip is un-. stitched to the article.

2. An article of wearing apparel having a hemmed edge covered by a covering strip and forming with the hemmed edge a pocket, and an elastic strip in said pocket, said garment having a plain portion and a gathered portion with the elastic strip stitched to the article at the plain portion and unstitched thereto at the gathered portion.

3. An article of wearing apparel having a hemmed. edge covered by a covering strip and forming with the hemmed edge a pocket, and an elastic strip in said pocket, said garment having a .plain portion and a gathered portion with the elastic strip stitched to the article at the plain portion and unstitched thereto at the gathered portion, the hemmed portion of the article and one edge of the covering strip being stitched by one line of stitching and the garment and the opposite edge of the covering strip together with the elastic strip, where stitched to the garment, being stitched by another and parallel line of stitching.

4. An article of wearing apparel having a hemmed portion and a covering strip having hemmed or folded edges stitched to said hemmed portion of the garment by spaced parallel rows of stitching, thereby forming a' pocket, and an elastic strip in said pocket, said garment having a plain portion and a gathered portion with the elastic strip stitched to the article by one line of stitching at the plain portion of the article and unstitched thereto by either line of stitching at the gathered portion.

5. An article of wearing apparel having stitched thereto by two spaced rows of parallel stitches a covering strip thereby forming a pocket, an elastic. strip within said pocket, said elastic strip being stitched by one of said rows of stitches at spaced parts of said elastic strip and unstitched by either of said rows of stitches intermediate such spaced parts.

6. An article of wearing apparel having stitched thereto by two spaced rows of parallel stitches a covering strip thereby form ing a pocket, an elastic strip Within said pocket, said elastic strip being stitched by one of said rows of stitches at spaced parts .of said elastic strip and unstitched by either of said rows of stitches intermediate such spaced parts, the stitched portion of the elastic strip taking place while such elastic strip is in its normal or unstretched condition and the said elastic strip being in a stretched or tensioned condition when the said elastic strip is not being stitched to said garment, whereby said garment will have gathered portions except where the elastic strip is stitched thereto.

7. An article of wearing apparel having a pocket consisting of a hemmed portion "of the article and a covering stri stitched thereto by spaced parallel rowsostitching, an elastic strip within said pocket, said elastic strip having a portion thereof stitched to the article while such strip is free of tension and another portion thereof unstitched to the article while said strip is under tenslon.

8. An article of wearing apparel having a hemmed portion, a coverlng strip stitched thereto by spaced parallel rows of stitches thereby forming a pocket, and an elastic strip within said pocket, separated portions of the elastic strip being stitched to the article while such strip is in its normal condition and free of tension and an intermediate portion of such strip being unstitched to the articlewhile the strip isunder tension or in a stretched condition. p

9. An article of wearing apparel having a hemmed edge, a folded covering strip stitched to said hemmed edge by spaced parallel rows of stitching thereby forming a pocket, an elastic strip within said pocket, the ends of the strip being stitched to the article by one row of stitching while the strip is in its normal condition and free of tension and the intermediate portion of the elastic strip being unstitched to the article by either row of stitches while such intermediate portion is in a stretched or tensioned condition.

10. A garment having a waist portion having a hemmed edge, a covering strip stitched to said hemmed portion by two spaced rows of parallel stitches thereby forming a pocket, an elastic strip within said pocket, the ends of the strip being stitched to the waist portion by one row of said stitches while the strip is in its normal condition and free of tension, the intermediate portion of said elastic strip between such stitched ends being unstitched to the waist portion while such intermediate portion is in a stretched or tensioned condition, said garment having a gathered portion between its ends.

11. A garment having a waist portion having a hemmed edge, a covering strip having folded edges stitched to sa1d hemmed portion by two spaced rows of parallel stitches thereby forming a pocket, an elastic 'strip within said pocket, the ends of the strip being stitched to the waist portion by one row of said stitches while the strip is in its normal condition and free of tension, the intermediate portion of said elastic strip between such stitched ends being unstitched to the Waist portion while such intermediate portion is in a stretched or tensioned condition, said garment having a gathered portion between its ends.

Signed at Nyack, N. Y., this 5th day of November, 1917.

. JOHN P. WEIS. 

